My Recommended Route List for Wadi Rum

Comments Welcome

This is a list routes I would recommend if you are spending a week or two in Rum. In the remarks section I sometimes describe details about in situ gear, protection needed, etc. If you don't want to know - don't read it! The Star(*) rating is according to my taste - so some generally good routes lose stars because of what I consider to be poor sections.
  • # - Refers to the route number in Howard's book.
  • F.A. - First Accent/Opening Party. "Howard" refers to Howard and Party, "Remy" refers to Claude and Yves Remy, "H&P" refers to Haupolter and Precht.
  • Grade - Grade given by the opening party / Guide Book
  • Class - The type/style of route, eg. Bedu - Bedouin, Sport, Trad, Mult - Multi-Pitch (more than 100m), Aid.
  • Time - the time for accent listed in Howard's book in hours.
  • Remarks - Realistic Time, gear and more.
  • Stars - my rating of the Route. 0 - 3 Stars.
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    Jebel Rum

    # Name F.A. Area Class Grade Meters Pitches Time Remarks Stars
    19 Al Thalamiyyah Howard J.Rum Bedouin 5- / ADSup 500m/3km - 4-4½ Outstanding route! Will take longer if you don't like scrambling in exposed positions. It is possible to go all the way to the summit of J.Rum and then to decend Hammad's Route, but this is a long day. See comments for route 65 for the decent. ***
    25 Black Magic Howard J.Rum, Dark Tower Trad.Mult. 5+ / DSup 300 12 3½ The short section of 5- on the "Grey Slab" is poorly protected. It is possible to continue abseiling to near the beginning of the route instead of the described decent (take some tat). **
    26 Mira Khoury Remy J.Rum, Dark Tower Trad.Mult. 5- / DSup 300 12 3½ This route is not nearly as exposed and commiting as many other Remy routes. Well worth doing. Can get cool pics of your friends climbing the Black Magic. Decend as decribed above on Black Magic... **
    28 North Side, Salim Remy J.Rum, Abu Maileh Tower Trad. 5+ 100 3 1½ Cool and shady, gains a small summit with a nice view. The actual climbing is not the nicest in Rum, but good solution for half a day. Watch out for "walking cams" peeping out at you from the deep cracks. *
    37 The Inshalla Factor Howard J.Rum, East Dome Trad.Mult.Aid 6a / TDSup 450 15 6-8 Pitch 5 goes free at about 6c, but is hard to protect while free climbing. There is a chemical anchor a few meters below the crux. Only bold climbers do this route without taking pegs and a hammer! ***
    39 Towering Inferno Howard J.Rum, East Dome Trad.Mult.Aid 6b / EDSup 300 13 full day All but one small section of A1 near the begining of the 6th pitch goes free. The piton for the pendulum was loose when we last passed it... The pendulum can be easily avoided by climbing a few meters diagonaly left and up on a fine slabby face from the pendulum point at about 6b to link pitches 6 and 7. There is an in situ piton visible above the stance at R7: this is off-route! The upper sections of A1 go free around 6b and can be protected with medium nuts, but it involves making few moves on poor rock. I recommend as in the original description, to take the aid gear and to leave the pleasure of freeclimbing to the second. ***
    57 The Eye of Allah Howard J.Rum. East Dome Trad.Mult 5- / ADSup 400 ±5 2½ - 3 A good way to get to know the area and gain a great summit! The cave is truly impressive. The actual climbing is not amazing but rock and gear is ok. This route is used as a decent for many of the long routes on the face of the N/E Dome, however it is also possible to abseil down Raid mit dem Camel,directly down the East Face. This decent was fully equipped,but bring extra tat. Bear in mind that if your ropes get stuck, you may need to be able to climb 7a+ to retreive them. **
    60 Hammad's Route Howard J.Rum Bedu 5 / ADSup 250 / 2km ±5 4 This route is a must if you intend to climb classics like "Pillar of Wisdom" or planning to decend via Hammad's Domes. Hammad's route is the main decent route of Jebel Rum, and route finding can be challenging, especially when going down. Best to get to know the route by climbing it, this can be combined with going to the summit. *
    65 The Pillar of Wisdom Howard J.Rum, Hammads Domes Trad.Mult 6b / TDInf 350 11 3½-4 A must, one of the Great Classics of Rum! The first thing to know about this route is the decent: go and do Hammad's Route (60) unless you like to sleep outside without most of your camping gear. Take torches and escape blankets... The second thing is not to underestimate the approach: it can take more than 2 hours to reach the top of the platform from the rest house unless you know the way. Most people rope up on the "scrambling" sections of the approach. ***
    72 Rijm Assaf Howard J.Rum, Summit Bedu 4 / ADSup / TDInf 250 / 1½km "alpine style" 3-5 Brilliant! The nicest easy route to gain the summit. Decent by Hammad's route (read comments for route 65). No crampons are necessary for crossing crevasses, but you will have to JUMP! ***
    73 Rum Doodle Howard J.Rum, Summit Trad.Mult. 5- / D 250 9 3 A worthwhile route without many difficulties. Good choice if you want to have an easy day. **
    86 Lionheart Edwards J.Rum, Abu Aina Towers Trad.Mult 6b / EDInf 350 8 5 Great sustained crack climbing. Short unprotected chimney section on R6. Easy decent abseiling the route/next to the route. ***
    91 W-E Traverse (Sabbah's Route) Howard J.Rum Bedu 3 / AD 3½km - 5-8 Easiest way to the Summit. Very enjoyable outing with no difficulties if you stay on route... see comments for route 65 **

    Jebel um Ishrin

    Incomplete - hope to update this sometime

    # Name F.A. Area Class Grade Meters Pitches Time Remarks Stars
    125 Cat Fish Corner Collona J.Kharazeh Sport.Trad.Mult 6c 105 3 1 Very sustained for the grade, has excellent protection, it is possible to continue along route 124 to the summit. ***
    126/7 Vanishing Pillar Howard J.Kharazeh Trad.Mult 5 / TDInf 400 ±14 6 Great route with the more serious climbing beginning only in the top half. Make sure to follow the crack all the way to the top. ***
    130 Rakabat Canyon - J.Kharazeh Bedu 2 / F 400 - !½ - 2½ Nice outing for a rest day, take a rope and return via Kharazeh Canyon (122) with one abseil(40m) or climb "Little Gem" (135) along the way. ***
    135 Little Gem Howard Rakabat Canyon Trad 6b 35 1 15min Great Rock, great setting, good for a rest day outing. ***
    139 The Beauty Colonna J.um Ejil Trad.Mult 6a / TD 200 6 4 The must do Route on the Um Ishrin Massif, perfect crack climbing. Thake your largest cam for the 4th pitch and leapfrog it up the crack as you go. The crux of the 4th pitch is getting into the layback off the stance, the rest is easy - go for it! The summit is worth the extra 20 minutes and the decent is very straightforward. ***
    141 Alan and his perverse Frog Colonna J.um Ejil Trad.Mult 6ab / TD 150? 6 4 Great Route, definitely worth doing if you have done the Beauty already. **
    148 Via Salim Musa Remy J.Um Ejil Trad.Mult 5 / D 200 6 3 Good Route with some nice scenery in the upper section and spectacular ledge walking on the decent. One of the easiest to find the start of. **
    166 Beautiful Last Day H&P Draif Al Muragh Trad.Mult V+ / TDSup 300 7 3½ Guide book says "Best Sandstone", but I've seen some better rock in Rum. A very nice climb all the same. 45 minutes walk from the rest house. *
    - La Guerre Sainte A.Petit et al Nasrani North, SE Face Sport.Mult 7b+ / 6c Obl. 400 12 day Superb, wild, sustained and difficult sports route, rest cave half way. If you pull on gear, it's about 6b+ or 6c, but still ver sustained and exausting, compared to many other long routes in Rum. At least two good BASE exit points from the top, if you dont like abbing. ***
    167 SandStorm Edwards Draif Al Muragh Trad 7a+ 90 2 1 Nice Crack! ***

    Barrah Canyon

    Incomplete - hope to update this sometime.
    These routes have zero approach (once you are in barrah that is...). Your partner could belay you from the sleeping bag while you flash the first pitch of Merlin's Wand. Barrah Canyon has a lot to offer!

    # Name F.A. Area Class Grade Meters Pitches Time Remarks Stars
    207 Les Rumeurs De La Pluie Remy Barrah Canyon Trad.Mult 5+ / TD 250 4 3 Three pitches of brilliant corner crack, last pitch is a little "Remy-ish" ***
    208 Hinte A Vous Remy Barrah Canyon Trad.Mult 6a / TD 200 7 3 Steep finger crack - excellent! ***
    209 Fesse Tival Remy Barrah Canyon Trad.Mult.Aid 6a / TD 200 11 4 Great Crack climbing with a few points of aid - mainly in-situ pegs. **
    210 Merlin's Wand Howard Barrah Canyon Trad.Mult 6a+ 150 5 3-4 Awesome crack! The must do route in Barrah, butwatch your ropes on the abseils. ***
    216 The Star of Abu Judaidah Duverney et Monnet Barrah Canyon Trad.Mult 6b / EDInf 220 7 4½ Brilliant ***