First Ascent: W.Colonna, M.Shaw, A.Howard 27th April 1986
An excellent route taking the natural line of the East Face. It goes straight up the centre of the wall, then winds leftwards to exit via entertaining chimneys in the headwall.
Main belays are in place, but several pegs may be useful (angles and blades). If free climbing, pitch 5 is fairly serious and has poor protection.
The route is the classic of the wall. Allow 6-8 hours for a competent rope of two.
Rack
1 set of Friends. The Route Scramble up aiming for the right hand side of the Inferno Tower to gain a ledge with a bolt belay. Sections of 2 or 3. 1. 6b 35m. Climb up then slightly leftwards to gain and follow a finger crack. This leads into a V-groove and an in-situ belay where it opens into a chimney/gully. 2. 4+ 40m. Continue up the chimney line. 3. 6a 30m. Climb the thin crack in the corner, with a difficult exit onto a ledge. Belay on a higher ledge. 4. 6a 40m. Climb the crack which turns into a slim chimney. 5. 6c (A1) 25m. Climb the crack to the small overlap. The section above yields to precarious free climbing or usually aid, passing an in-situ peg to gain a hanging belay. 6. 6a 30m. Move right and climb straight up then slightly leftwards to a belay in a sandy niche. 7. 5+ 40m. Move left onto the slab and follow a diagonal line leading leftwards. This pitch has poor protection and some doubtful rock, but is not technically difficult. 8. 5+ 40m. Traverse leftwards to a peg runner, then pull around onto the wall in an exposed position. Continue directly to a small ledge and belay. 9. 6a 40m. Move right and climb a short corner until it is possible to pull out to the right. Follow the obvious line trending slightly leftwards to belay on a huge ledge. This is the Fourth Floor Balcony. 10. 2 25m. Move up onto some blocks then shuffle leftwards to a large sandy ledge with a belay on the edge. It is possible to descend from this point down the line of Towering Inferno. 11. 3 45m. Climb easily up a slab, then traverse horizontally along a narrow ledge to a thread and large cam belay near a short chimney/gully. This point is almos
t directly beneath the final chimney. 12. 3+ 50m. Climb into the chimney, then move rightwards, up and then back left. Follow the easiest line to a ledge just below the final chimney. 13. 2 30m. Climb easily into the chimney. Take a belay at a suitable spot just where the climbing steepens. 14. 5 30m. Climb straight up to where the chimney floor flattens out. Belay here. 15. 5+ 40m. Continue up the excellent chimney. 16. 3 15m. Climb easily up the crack until it is possible to walk back to a tree. The route finishes here. It is now possible to descend via The Eye of Allah route, which is only a few metres away. However, it is worthwhile to scramble to the summit of the East Dome, which should take around twenty minutes. To descend reverse the route to this point and then descend via The Eye of Allah.
2 sets of wired nuts (RP's/HB's may be useful if free climbing especially for pitch 5.
12 quickdraws
slings
A selection of pegs (angles & blades).