First Ascent: W.Colonna, A.Howard 13th October 1986
An excellent route following crack and groove systems on the left centre of the East Face, finishing on the 'balcony' of Inshallah Factor.
The route has a mixture of free and aid climbing, although it is possible to climb the route with only one or two short aid sections.
The rock, belays and protection are mostly good, but the final aid pitch ascends thin sandy flakes.
Allow a full day for ascent. A slow party should consider taking bivi gear.
RACK
A full set of Friends THE ROUTE 1. 35m 5+. The first 10 metres contain some doubtful rock, but it soon improves. Follow the crack to an interesting chain belay. 2. 40m 6b. Continue up the crack system, past a bolt (possible belay) to the First Floor balcony. Bolt belays. 3. 50m 6a. Follow the excellent flake crackline, steepening gradually to belay at a small ledge. Bolt belay. 4. 55m 6b/A1(3pts). Traverse left for a few metres then climb up towards the bolt. A short aid section here (small angles) followed by free climbing to an in-situ peg. This is the pendulum point if following the original route described in Tony Howards' book. Move up, then diagonally left (6a) heading towards another in-situ peg. Follow the obvious line until it is possible to make a delicate traverse (6a+) to the right. Do not continue to the off route peg visible high up. In-situ peg belay. 5. 25m 6a. Climb the corner above the stance to an in-situ peg. Make a long rising traverse to the right(15m) to a small ledge and peg. Possible (poor) belay. Continue directly up the crackline above to belay on the Third Floor balcony. In-situ peg belays. 6. 30m A2/5+. Follow the obvious curving crackline above the stance (mostly angle pegs and nuts) until it is possible to climb free to the belay. In-situ belays. 7. 55m 4. Climb the chimney via the easiest line to a big ledge at 40metres. Possible belay. Continue up and then leftwards along ledges to an in-situ peg belay. It is possible to gain this belay more directly by climbing delicately on 'rock crisps'. The Descent Route The in-situ belay is the first abseil station for those wishing to descend from the Fourth Floor balcony. Abseil down the route. The third abseil is very diagonal. 1-2 hours However, it is far better to continue up Inshallah Factor to the summit of the East Dome and then Descend via The Eye of Allah (3hrs).
A double set of wired nuts
12 Quickdraws
selection of pegs: small to medium angles and a knifeblade. Ten pegs in total should be enough.